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Miami Beach's Grillfish has a
system, and after 10 years of thriv™
ing in an increasingly competitive
restaurant town, you'd have to
declare that the system works.
It's the fish, stupid. Neighboring
restaurants with double the price™
tag set kitchen stars' creativity free.
No Iron Chefs allowed here: It's
super-fresh seafood against grill or
iron pan, blackened, sautÎed or
grilled. There's more to the menu
than that, but all recipes emphasize
simplicity.
Be sure to start with fried cala™
mari, packaged with marinara and
lemon, that rivals any in town. The
squid pieces are always brought
hot, tender and pleasingly sweet,
and the sauce is tart. Blackened
salmon cake has more complexity
but is still honest eating; two is
plenty to share.
Arugula salad with goat cheese
and spicy coconut dressing is wor™
thy but redundant if you take the
house salad option with your dinner.
The freebie salad is top-notch, with organic
greens, good tomatoes and plenty
of sliced mushrooms doused with a
caraway seed-Dijon dressing.
The cheapest fish entree,
swordfish pieces on a skewer, pro™
vides excellent flavor at just over
$10. Fish is served with a choice of
dipping sauces plus a couple half-
ears of corn, in addition to the
salad (pasta, if you prefer).
You can pair most any shellfish
with pasta and choose from a gar™
lic-wine-olive oil or tomato and
garlic sauce (for shrimp, there's
scampi, too). Best pasta dish is sea™
food fra diavolo, a personal sautÎe
pan loaded with linguine and lots
of shrimp, clams, mussels and
squid in moderately spicy sauce.
Many kinds of fish … and
chicken, too … are available pic™
cata or marsala style.
key>>
Place: Grillfish.
Address: 1444 Collins Ave., Miami Beach.
Rating: Very Good.
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